Sway Bar End Links: Stock, Adjustable and Extended Explained

Sway bar end links are the short rods that connect each end of the sway bar to the control arm or strut, so the bar can twist and resist body roll when one side of the car compresses. On a car at factory height, a stock-length replacement link is all you need; once you lower or lift the car, an adjustable or extended link keeps the bar at the right angle and free of preload.

Most of the 155 end links on our store cost $70 to $299, with OE-style replacements at the low end and spherical-bearing race links and heavy-duty truck links at the top. About 68 of them are adjustable. You can browse them all in sway bar end links, or see complete bars and link kits in sway bars and end links.

How sway bar end links work

The sway bar (also called an anti-roll bar or stabilizer bar) is a torsion spring that runs across the car. When you turn, the outside wheel compresses and the inside wheel extends. The end links carry that movement into the ends of the bar, the bar twists, and it pushes back to keep the body flatter.

A worn link usually shows up as a clunk or rattle over small bumps. If you are not sure the link is the problem, see bad sway bar link symptoms.

Link length matters because the bar is designed to sit at a set angle at ride height. Change the ride height and the distance between the bar end and the arm changes too. If the link no longer matches that distance, the bar sits at a steep angle, or it is twisted before you even turn. That twist is called preload, and it can make the car handle differently turning left and right.

Types of end links compared

These are the main kinds of end link, with real examples and prices from our catalog.

Bushing links are simple and quiet. Ball joint and spherical links handle more angle and load, which suits stiffer bars and lowered cars, though spherical joints can pass a little more noise into the cabin.

Popular fitments and prices

If you have one of these cars, here is what we carry and what it costs. Lengths are stud to stud, as listed by each brand.

When stock links are fine and when to go adjustable

Stay with stock length if the car is at factory height and you only need to replace a worn link. An OE-style link is the cheapest fix.

Go adjustable in these cases:

• The car is lowered. Lowering moves the arm up toward the bar, so the stock link can end up at a poor angle or holding the bar twisted. Small drops on lowering springs often work with stock links. Bigger drops on coilovers usually benefit from shorter adjustable links.
• The car feels different left and right. That is a classic sign of a preloaded bar.
• You fitted a stiffer or adjustable bar. More load goes through the links, and moving to a different hole on the bar changes the length you need. SPL Parts' GR86 and BRZ front links, for example, use 1/2 inch bearings and studs rated for 65 degrees of articulation for exactly this reason.
• You corner-weight the car. Each corner's height changes as you set the weights, so preload is hard to avoid without adjustable links.

Extended links for lifted trucks and Jeeps

A lift moves the axle or control arm away from the frame, so the stock link becomes too short and the bar hangs at a steep angle. Extended links restore it. Buy them to match your lift height: Skyjacker's SBE402, for example, is made for a 3 to 4 inch lift, and its SBE525 disconnect links for Jeeps with a 3.5 to 4 inch lift. Do not assume the longest link is best, because too long is as bad as too short. For help sizing the lift itself, see leveling kit vs lift kit.

How to measure and set preload

1. Load the suspension. Put the car at ride height on a level surface, on its wheels, ramps or drive-on lifts. Never set links with the wheels hanging.
2. Measure the gap. Disconnect one end of each link and measure stud center to stud center between the bar end and its mount. That tells you which adjustment range to buy.
3. Start from the brand's setting. Many kits give a starting length. One Eibach front kit's instructions, for example, say to set the links to 150 mm center to center before fitting.
4. Adjust each link. Turn the center rod until the stud drops into its hole without pushing or pulling the bar. Do both sides.
5. Lock and torque. Tighten the jam nuts, then torque the stud nuts to the vehicle or brand spec. Hold the ball stud with a hex key or wrench so it does not spin.
6. Check and recheck. Turn the steering lock to lock and check clearance to the wheel, brake line and tire. Recheck the hardware after the first drive.

Install time and difficulty

End links are one of the easier suspension jobs. On most cars it is a hand-tool job of under an hour per axle, and adjustable links add time for measuring and setting both sides. Rusted studs that spin in their sockets are the main thing that turns it into a longer job; cutting them off may be the only option. A shop will usually treat it as a short job. Replacing end links does not change the alignment.

What else you'll need

• Sway bar bushings. If the bar's frame bushings are cracked or oval, replace them at the same time or the clunk may stay.
• Your new ride height. If you are lowering at the same time, work out the drop with the ride height and wheel fitment calculator before you order link lengths.
• Bump stops. A big drop can let the arm hit its stop or let the bar contact the body. See bump stops.
• The rest of the drop. If you are still shopping for it, compare lowering springs and coilovers in coilovers vs lowering springs.

Common mistakes

• Setting adjustable links with the car on jack stands and the wheels hanging. The bar ends up preloaded as soon as the car is back on the ground.
• Leaving the jam nuts loose. The link can unwind and change length.
• Running two different lengths side to side without a reason. That builds in preload.
• Using an impact gun on a ball stud. It spins the ball and can wreck the joint.
• Buying the longest extended link for a truck instead of the one matched to your lift.

Our picks

• Godspeed BRZ (ZC6) 2013-21 adjustable end links, $70. The cheapest way to remove preload on a lowered first-generation BRZ.
• Megan Racing adjustable rear end links for Civic 2016+ and Integra 2022+, $125. For lowered 10th and 11th-gen Civics.
• Eibach front adjustable end link kit for Mustang S550, $150. Pairs well with a lowered S550 or an Eibach bar.
• SPL Parts front end links for GR86, BRZ, GT86 and FR-S, $249. For track cars running a stiffer aftermarket bar.
• Skyjacker SBE402 extended end links, $113.99. For trucks with a 3 to 4 inch lift.
• Moog K80822 end link, $85.99 each. A stock-height replacement for 2012-2023 Dodge and Chrysler models.

FAQ

What do sway bar end links do?

They connect the ends of the sway bar to the suspension, so the bar can twist and resist body roll when one side compresses. Without them the bar does nothing.

Do I need adjustable end links after lowering springs?

Not always. Small drops often work with stock links. If the bar sits at a steep angle or the car feels different turning left and right, adjustable links fix it.

Can you drive with a broken sway bar end link?

You can, but you shouldn't for long. The car rolls more and handles less predictably on that side, and a loose link or bar can hit nearby parts. Replace it soon.

Should I replace end links in pairs?

Yes, ideally. Both sides see similar wear, and matched links keep the bar balanced. Some OE-style links, like Moog's K80822, are sold individually, so check whether you need to order two.

Do I need an alignment after replacing end links?

No. End links do not change camber, caster or toe. You only need an alignment if you changed ride height or other suspension parts at the same time.

Sources

• Eibach adjustable front end link installation instructions
• MotoIQ: installing Whiteline sway bars and adjustable end links on a 350Z
• eBay Motors: understanding sway bar links
• KSP: sway bar end links buyer's guide