Bad Tie Rod End Symptoms and How to Check Them
By Shane Allen · · 8 min read
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The most common signs of a bad tie rod end are a clunk or knock when you turn or hit bumps, loose steering with play in the wheel, a car that wanders or pulls, and front tires wearing fast on the inner or outer edge. A badly worn tie rod end can also make the steering wheel shake or sit off center.
Tie rod ends are cheap next to the damage a failed one can cause. Most tie rod ends and inner tie rods on our store cost $40 to $200 each, with OE-style Moog, Mevotech, ACDelco and Motorcraft parts mostly $83 to $176. Shop all tie rods and tie rod ends.
What a tie rod end does
Tie rods connect your steering rack or steering box to the steering knuckles. When you turn the wheel, the rack pushes and pulls the tie rods, and they swing the knuckles. Most cars have two parts per side:
- The inner tie rod screws onto the end of the rack, with a ball joint inside the rack boot.
- The outer tie rod end threads onto the inner rod and bolts into the knuckle through a tapered ball stud.
The thread between them sets toe, the angle of the front tires relative to straight ahead. That is why a worn tie rod end shows up so quickly as tire wear and why you always need an alignment after replacing one.
Symptoms of a bad tie rod end
- Clunk, knock or rattle. Usually from the front when turning at low speed or over bumps. Some people describe it as a click or a chuckle.
- Loose or vague steering. The wheel moves a little before the car responds, or the car takes constant small corrections on the highway.
- Pulling or wandering. One worn side can pull the car that way. Both worn can make it wander.
- Uneven tire wear. Wear on the inner or outer edge of the front tires, or a feathered feel across the tread. Moog's inspection guidance notes that small amounts of wear in each tie rod end can add up to a big change in toe.
- An alignment that won't hold. The car comes back from an alignment and drifts off again within weeks.
- Torn boot or rust at the stud. Once water gets into the joint it wears quickly, even if it is not loose yet.
Symptom or something else?
Many steering and suspension faults make the same noises, so check the whole front end before you buy parts.
| What you notice | Tie rod end? | Also check |
|---|---|---|
| Play in the steering wheel | Very likely | Inner tie rods, rack mounts, steering box |
| Edge wear on both front tires | Likely | Alignment settings, lowered ride height |
| Clunk over small bumps, not when turning | Possible | Sway bar links, strut mounts |
| Knock when turning and braking | Possible | Ball joints, control arm bushings |
| Steering darts over bumps on a lowered car | Possible | Bump steer from the new ride height |
| Hum or growl that rises with speed | No | Wheel bearings, tires |
Inner vs outer tie rods
| Outer tie rod end | Inner tie rod | |
|---|---|---|
| Where it is | At the steering knuckle, behind the wheel | At the rack, inside the bellows boot |
| How to check for play | Push and pull up and down by hand | Push and pull front to rear by hand through the boot |
| How it fails | Most exposed to water and grit, so it often wears first | Wears more slowly; a torn rack boot speeds it up |
| Replacement difficulty | Easy to moderate | Moderate; often needs an inner tie rod tool |
| Price on our store | OE-style mostly $83 to $176 each | About $46 to $236 |
How to check your tie rod ends
- Look first. With the wheels turned, check each boot for tears and the stud for rust where it enters the knuckle. Moog's guidance says a torn seal, or water coming out when you lift the edge of the seal, means that end should be replaced.
- Hand check the outers. Grab the outer tie rod end and push it up and down. Any free play means it is worn. Don't use a pry bar or water pump pliers, which give false readings.
- Hand check the inners. Turn the wheels right to reach the passenger-side inner joint and left for the driver side. Squeeze the boot and push the rod front to rear to feel for play in the joint.
- Do a dry park test. With the car on the ground or on drive-on ramps, have a helper rock the steering wheel quickly back and forth a short way. Watch and feel each joint. Any lag between the joint's two halves is wear.
- Check the rest. Look at ball joints, control arm bushings and the rack mounts at the same time.
If you are not sure, a shop can check the front end on a lift.
Can you drive with a bad tie rod end?
Only to get it fixed, and gently. A worn tie rod end gets looser over time, and if the stud pulls out of the knuckle or the joint separates, you lose steering on that wheel. A failed tie rod can lead to loss of steering control. If the steering suddenly feels very loose, or you hear a heavy clunk with every turn, have the car towed.
Lowered and lifted vehicles
Changing ride height changes the angle of the tie rods, which can cause bump steer: the wheel steers itself as the suspension moves. It also puts more angle through the joints, so they can wear faster.
- Lowered cars. Extended outer tie rod ends or bump steer kits move the pivot to bring the tie rod back toward its stock angle. SPL Parts' GR86 and BRZ kit, for example, adjusts the pivot height in 1/8 and 1/4 inch steps with stainless spacers. See bump steer for how to tell if you need one.
- Lifted trucks and big tires. Larger, heavier tires put more load through the steering. Heavy-duty tie rods and a steering stabilizer help, but they don't fix a worn joint.
- Drift cars. Angle kits and big lock put the tie rods through extreme travel. Use parts made for it, such as those in steering angle kits.
Install time and difficulty
An outer tie rod end is a beginner to moderate job, often under an hour per side. Before you unscrew the old one, count the turns or measure from the jam nut to a fixed point, so the new one goes on close to the old toe. Even so, matching turns can still leave toe a few degrees off, which is enough to wear tires, so an alignment is not optional.
Inner tie rods take longer. You need to remove the outer end and the rack boot, and most cars need an inner tie rod tool to undo the joint from the rack. Use the torque spec from the service information, and install tapered studs clean and dry unless the instructions say otherwise. Many owners leave inner tie rods to a shop. After the alignment, some newer cars need a steering angle sensor reset, which the shop can do.
What else you'll need
- An alignment. Every time a tie rod end comes off.
- Rack boots. If you replace the inner tie rods, fit new boots and clamps.
- Cotter pins and nuts. Use the new hardware that comes with the part.
- Alignment parts for modified cars. If camber or toe won't come into range after lowering, see alignment and camber kits.
Common mistakes
- Replacing an outer end when the play is actually in the inner joint.
- Driving on new tie rod ends without an alignment. Toe that is slightly off can ruin a set of tires.
- Using a pickle fork that tears the new boot, or hammering on the threads.
- Forgetting the jam nut, so the end can unwind and toe changes.
- Replacing one side only when both have the same mileage and wear.
Our picks
- Mevotech TTX TXMS25673, $82.99. Greasable, sold individually, listed for Ram models from 2019 to 2026.
- Moog ES800743, $85.99. A greasable replacement listed for Chevrolet, GMC and Isuzu models from 2002 to 2013.
- Moog DS300044, $320.99. Listed for Dodge and Ram models from 2003 to 2013, sold individually.
- Megan Racing MRS-SC-0660 inner tie rods, $108 a pair. For 2013 to 2016 FR-S, 2017 to 2021 Toyota 86 and 2013 to 2021 BRZ.
- Godspeed extended tie rod ends for Honda Civic, $65. For Civics lowered on coilovers.
- SPL Parts bump steer adjustable tie rod ends for GR86 and BRZ, $299 a pair. For lowered or track GR86, BRZ, GT86 and FR-S.
FAQ
What does a bad tie rod end sound like?
A clunk, knock or click from the front, mostly when turning at low speed or going over bumps. It can sound a lot like a worn sway bar link or ball joint, so check by hand.
Do I need an alignment after replacing a tie rod end?
Yes. The tie rod sets toe, and even if you count the turns, toe will be slightly off. Get it aligned right away.
Should I replace tie rod ends in pairs?
It is a good idea if both sides have the same mileage, since the other side is usually close behind. Some parts are sold individually, so check whether you need to order two.
Can a bad tie rod end cause vibration?
It can make the steering wheel shake, especially over rough roads. A vibration that only shows at highway speed is more often wheel balance or a tire.
Is an inner or outer tie rod more likely to fail?
The outer end usually goes first because it sits near the wheel in water and grit. Check both, because a worn inner joint gives the same loose steering.
Sources
Shop the parts in this guide
Written by Shane Allen
Shane runs Lower HQ. He builds suspension and telemetry hardware and comes from a motorsport background that spans Formula Drift, sim racing and vehicle dynamics. These guides are written for people setting up their own cars and trucks, using the fitment and prices listed in our catalog.
Specs, fitment and prices come from each brand and can change. Check the product listing before you order, or ask us to confirm fitment.
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