Moog control arm and ball joint assembly

Bad Ball Joint Symptoms and How to Check Them

The most common signs of a bad ball joint are a clunk or knock from the front over bumps, loose or wandering steering, and uneven wear on the inner or outer edge of the front tires. A worn ball joint is a safety problem: if it separates, the wheel can fold under the car and you can lose control.

Most replacement ball joints on our store cost $84 to $240 each, from Moog, ACDelco, Mevotech, SPC Performance, Dorman and more. Shop all ball joints, or control arms if your joint is built into the arm.

Below are the symptoms, how to check for play safely, how replacement works on different designs, and what to do on a lowered or lifted vehicle.

What a ball joint does

A ball joint is a ball-and-socket pivot that connects the steering knuckle to the control arm. It lets the wheel move up and down and steer at the same time. Most front suspensions have one or two per side.

There are two kinds, and they wear differently:

  • Load-carrying joints hold up the weight of the vehicle. On many trucks and older cars with the spring on the lower arm, the lower joint carries the load.
  • Follower joints do not carry weight but hold the alignment. They are spring-loaded inside to take up wear. When they wear sideways, camber, caster or toe change and the tires start wearing unevenly.

Symptoms of a bad ball joint

Symptom What you notice Could also be
Clunk or knock From one front corner over bumps, dips or driveway aprons Sway bar end links, strut mounts, control arm bushings
Wandering steering The car drifts and needs constant small corrections at highway speed Tie rod ends, alignment, worn steering rack
Uneven tire wear Inner or outer shoulder wear, or feathering, on the front tires Bad alignment, tie rods, low tire pressure
Squeak or creak Turning at low speed or rolling over speed bumps, often from a dry joint with a torn boot Dry bushings, sway bar bushings
Vibration Through the steering wheel or floor Tire balance, bent wheel, wheel bearing
Popping in tight turns Slow, full-lock turns in parking lots Outer CV joint on front-wheel drive

Because so many parts cause the same sounds, a clunk alone does not prove a ball joint is bad. Find the play before you buy parts.

Is it safe to drive with a bad ball joint?

No. A worn ball joint gets looser over time, and a fully separated joint can let the wheel come off its normal position. If you hear a new clunk from the front, the steering feels loose, or the car pulls hard, stop driving it and have the front end inspected. NAPA's guidance is the same: a professional should diagnose and repair suspect ball joints, because a disconnected joint can mean losing a wheel.

How to check a ball joint for play

A quick home check can tell you if something is loose. A proper inspection uses a dial indicator and the maker's spec, which is why many people let a shop confirm it.

  1. Park on flat, solid ground and chock the rear wheels. Raise the front and support it on jack stands. Never get under a car held up only by a jack.
  2. Where you put the jack matters. A load-carrying joint has to be unloaded before you can see its play. On many trucks that means jacking under the lower control arm. Check your service manual for your suspension.
  3. Grab the tire at 12 and 6 o'clock and rock it in and out. Have a helper watch the ball joints. Movement at the joint points to the ball joint. Movement at the hub with the joint still points to the wheel bearing; see wheel bearing noise.
  4. Look for a torn or missing rubber boot. Once the boot fails, dirt and water get in and the joint wears quickly.
  5. Some joints have a built-in wear indicator, and those are usually checked with the vehicle sitting on its wheels. Your service manual explains how to read it. On greasable joints, Moog's technical site notes that if a grease gun will no longer couple to the fitting, the joint needs replacing.

The Moog technical team warns that pry bars and pliers can give misleading results, because bushings flex and some new joints compress too. If your quick check finds play, have a shop measure it before you condemn the part.

Ball joint designs and how they are replaced

Design How it comes out Difficulty
Pressed-in Pressed out of the control arm or knuckle with a ball joint press Hard. Rust can make it very hard, especially steel joints in aluminum arms.
Bolted-in Unbolts from the arm Moderate
Riveted Rivets are drilled or cut out, and the new joint bolts in Moderate to hard
Built into the arm Replace the whole control arm Moderate. Often the easier job, and you get new bushings too.

The stud is held in the knuckle by a taper, and it can take a separator tool to break it loose. Torque the castle nut or locknut to the factory spec, and use a new cotter pin where one is fitted.

Install time and difficulty

A bolt-in joint or a complete control arm swap is within reach of a confident home mechanic with good jack stands, a torque wrench and a separator. Plan on a few hours for both sides the first time. Pressed-in joints on rusty trucks can take much longer and need a press kit. NAPA notes most ball joint repairs keep the vehicle off the road for about a day at a shop. If you have any doubt, have a shop do it. This is a part that holds the wheel on.

Lowered and lifted vehicles

Changing ride height changes the angle of the control arms, and that can work the ball joints harder or run them out of angle.

  • Drop ball joints are one way to lower the front of some trucks. Belltech lists a 2-inch drop ball joint set for the Colorado and Canyon at $395.
  • Offset ball joints add camber or caster adjustment. SPC Performance lists an offset joint that corrects -0.50 to +0.50 degrees.
  • Extended ball joints on lowered cars restore the lower arm angle and roll center. They often come with matching tie rod ends to fix bump steer at the same time.

Our ride height and wheel fitment calculator helps you see how much your stance has changed.

What it costs

Brand Ball joints listed Typical price Range
Moog 58 $104 $83 to $181
ACDelco 21 $93 $84 to $131
SPC Performance 19 $152 $86 to $261
Mevotech 14 $102 $81 to $127
Dorman 4 $116 $88 to $120

Prices are per joint. Shop labor varies a lot with design and rust, so get a quote for your vehicle.

What else you'll need

Our picks

Check the fitment for your exact year, model and drivetrain on each product page.

FAQ

What does a bad ball joint sound like?

Usually a clunk or knock from one front corner over bumps. A dry joint can also squeak or creak when you turn or go over speed bumps.

How long can you drive on a bad ball joint?

You should not plan to. Once you suspect one, have it inspected right away, because a separated joint can cause a loss of control.

Should ball joints be replaced in pairs?

It is a good idea on the same axle if the mileage is similar. The other side has seen the same roads and is usually close behind.

Do I need an alignment after replacing ball joints?

Yes. New ball joints or control arms change the alignment, and skipping it can wear the tires quickly.

Is it cheaper to replace the ball joint or the control arm?

The joint alone is cheaper as a part, but a complete arm can save labor when the joint is pressed in or rusted. When the joint is built into the arm, the arm is the only option.

Sources

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Written by Shane Allen

Shane runs Lower HQ. He builds suspension and telemetry hardware and comes from a motorsport background that spans Formula Drift, sim racing and vehicle dynamics. These guides are written for people setting up their own cars and trucks, using the fitment and prices listed in our catalog.

Specs, fitment and prices come from each brand and can change. Check the product listing before you order, or ask us to confirm fitment.

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